The main cemetery in Wapakoneta, my hometown, is called Greenlawn. Like cemeteries in other towns, for most people it's "a sad place". But for me, Greenlawn was never sad. Growing up I had registered it as a venue for beginnings rather than endings.
Until he was
middle-aged, my maternal grandfather, Vernon Leroy Weber, known to me as
Grandpa Vern, was a tenant farmer. He worked his youth away on the Herbst
Farms, which belonged to a large landowner of that surname whose holdings were
mostly in Shelby and Auglaize counties. Grandpa Vern moved his family
consecutively to three of those farms, that I know of, as my mother and her two
brothers and her sister were growing up. One was in the middle of the country off
of the South Dixie Highway (Old US Route 25) in Shelby County. Another was near
the village of Botkins in Auglaize County on that same route. The last one on
the Middle Pike just east of Wapakoneta, roughly where Interstate-75 now scars
the gently rolling farmland.
Greenlawn Cemetery, Wapakoneta |
Until they moved to the
Middle Pike, my mother, Reba Mae, never lived in a house with running water or
electric lights. There was a hand pump in the kitchen and the bathroom was out
back. In winter, homework was done by the light of a coal oil lamp, and the
milking was done before school (Reba Mae and Grandma Myrt's job) by the light
of a barn lantern. School was a one-room country schoolhouse a mile and a half
away from home, where at least six grades were taught simultaneously. Reba Mae
walked or rode her Shetland pony, depending on the weather. But the education
she got was amazingly complete. When she went to high school in town—highly
applied student and avid reader that she was—she not only had no problem
keeping up with the new curriculum but was also often ahead of it.
My grandmother, Myrtle
(née) Cavinder instilled the love of reading in her. Grandma had an excellent
education for a woman of her times (she was born in 1899), having finished the
equivalent of eighth grade. Had she not married a farmer, her schooling would
probably have permitted her to work in a mercantile business or office as a
clerk or secretary. Grandpa Vern, for his part, had only had three years of
formal schooling, which he got largely by accident. As soon as he was old
enough to do farm work, he was needed on the land. Reba Mae once told me that the
only reason he even got the three years of school that he did was because, at
the time, there were sometimes bears in the woods that his sister Clara had to
cross to get to the one-room schoolhouse she attended. Until she was considered
old enough to walk alone, he accompanied her.
He managed, however, to
learn to read and write quite well with my grandmother's help. Before the
advent of television in our neck of the woods, long after Vern moved the family
to town, he entertained himself reading the dime store cowboy novels that were
popular at the time. He also entertained himself and his family (including us
grandchildren later on) by sometimes grabbing a scratch pad and the stub of a
pencil and sketching out comic drawings of lanky cowboys, sway-backed horses
and busty ornery-looking country women. Sometimes the cowboys and their mounts
both wore the same perverse toothy grins and I remember that when my little
brother was about four years old, Grandpa Vern tried to make him a gift of one
of these drawings, but was turned down. "I don't want that horsey,
Grandpa," my little brother said cowering from the pencil drawing.
"He will bite me!"
Hard as a tenant
farmer's life was, however, you never heard complaints from any of them. Not my
grandparents, or my mother, or her siblings. That was just the way country life
was and it had a lot of joyous and beautiful aspects to it. There was a
communion with nature and the weather, a love of the countryside. Things my
mother inherited from hers, both of them gentle intelligent women who had a
special love for all things natural.
As for Grandpa Vern, he
was a force of nature all his own. He was an active man with the strength of an
ox, the obstinacy of a mule, the grit and endurance of a marathon runner and
the ever-seething violence of a tornado. As it affected him personally, he
ignored the weather. As it affected the farm, he worked around it. He neither
loved nor hated it. He accepted and reacted to it, period, an attitude quite
different from that of Myrt and Reba Mae, who were practically instinctive
meteorologists. They could forecast what was coming just by watching the
animals, the plants, the sky and the trees, by smelling the air, by the feel of
the wind.
The knowledge that
Grandpa Vern had of all things practical was astonishing. He was a capable if
not particularly sophisticated carpenter (he built the first bungalow he and my
grandmother lived in on his father's farm, for instance), an able mechanic and
a consummate farmer. He knew a great deal about animal husbandry and was an
excellent judge of horse flesh.
Vern on the tractor he built. |
I don't know what the
circumstances were surrounding their moving to town—perhaps the belated effects
of the Great Depression, perhaps a desire to see their children properly educated—but
sometime between the time my mother and her older brother Eugene started and
finished high school, the family moved to the big barn of a house on Van Horn
Street, where my grandparents would live until their deaths. Grandpa Vern
landed a job on a State Highway Department crew building, improving and
repairing Ohio roads. Eventually, however, perhaps through the
influence of the Herbst family, he ended up working at and later being in
charge of Greenlawn Cemetery.
Cemetery work was hard
in those days. The six-foot-deep graves were dug by hand and people were
inconsiderate enough to die in all kinds of weather—from the blistering heat
of Ohio summers to the Arctic chill of northern winters and from the
torrential rains and mud of spring to the golden days of autumn. But the only
recognition of the seasons that my grandfather ever demonstrated were
changes of headgear and outerwear—a broad-brimmed hat for rain and sun, a
wide-billed canvas cap for mid-seasons and a lined cap with ear-flaps for the winter,
accompanied by various and sundry combinations of woolen jackets, rain
slickers, flannel or tropical twill work shirts and khaki or woolen work pants,
always with the same heavy work shoes, sometimes covered with buckle-up,
shin-high rubber snow-boots for the most inclement weather.
Vernon Leroy Weber, cemetery boss |
When I reached an age
at which I had certain autonomy (perhaps ten years old), I was allowed to ride
my bicycle pretty much any place in town. So, I would sometimes ride all the
way out to the city limits where the cemetery was located and hang out for a
while. It wasn't as if you could make a nuisance of yourself. My grandfather
was stern and had little patience with children. But as long as I just watched
and didn't get into the way, I think he found it flattering that I should want
to spend time out there with him. Besides, whenever he got tired of my being
under foot, he would simply say, "You best get on outa here now," and
I knew better than to ask why.
When he was in the
mood, however, he taught me a great deal. By the time I was twelve, I knew the
common name of every tree and plant in the cemetery. He wouldn't give me master
classes or anything, but if he saw me looking at some particular species, he
might say something like, "Know what that is, Dan'el?" And If I shook
my head, he would say, "That there's a star gum," or "that'n
over there's a dogwood," or "that there's a juniper pine."
But this kind of
intermittent communion wasn't limited to the cemetery, although Greenlawn was,
nevertheless, where most adventures began. From the time I was old enough to
walk all day without becoming a burden, he started taking me with him when he
went hunting. Not always, but whenever the spirit moved him. He first tested me
on hikes he took each fall with my older sister, Darla, so that she could add
new species to her leaf collection.
Greenlawn, dominated by the Herbst monument |
Anyway, the first hike
we took, the three of together, was when I was still quite small, perhaps eight
or so, and I was only permitted to go because I bawled and hollered and carried
on until, at her wits' end, my mother told my sister that if she were going
with Grandpa she would have to take me too or she wouldn’t be allowed to go.
Clearly, Darla wasn't at
all happy with the arrangement, so she did little or nothing to help me keep up.
On the contrary, she was probably secretly hoping I would simply get lost. She
had been on a couple of such expeditions before with our grandfather and knew
that he was not some kindly old granddad who would make allowances for the weak
or faint of heart. You kept pace or became buzzard bait.
I was, then, shocked at
the apparent irresponsibility and lack of understanding of both of them, when
Grandpa parked his Hudson at the back of the cemetery, negotiated a
seven-strand barbed wire fence, dropped lithely into a cornfield on the other
side and said over his shoulder, "Ready, Dard?" To which my sister
said yes, gleefully scrambled over the fence and took off after him as he made
his way down a corn row with incredible haste, while I was still meticulously
seeking to get over the fence without scratching myself on its threatening
barbs, since, my mother had warned me, if I were to hurt myself on rusty barbed
wire, I was going to have to have a tetanus shot.
Grandpa Vern was very
close to six feet tall, slim as a birch sapling and with unusually long legs
that, sure-footed as he was, allowed him to cover rough terrain at astonishing
speeds. He would move down the corn rows with a kind of violent grace, elbowing
the shoulder-high plants out of his way and snapping off or trampling down any
that had the audacity to try and block his path. And my naturally strong and
agile sister managed to dog him so closely that she was often in danger of
stepping on his heels—a very real danger, since if you were to step on Grandpa Vern's heels, you could pretty much expect
to get elbowed in the nose. I lagged behind at a trot in mortal fear of losing
sight of them. And even after we broke out of the dense, stifling corn-row hell
into open pasture and woodlots, the pattern remained pretty much the same. My
day ended up being mostly about keeping up.
But I must have done a
pretty good job of it because my reward was that many times after that I was
invited to go along, without my sister, when the mission was a more important
one than mere leaf-collecting— namely, hunting for pheasant and rabbit. When I
was still small, he put my inexpert awkwardness to good use, utilizing my
dubious talents as a surrogate hunting dog by sending me off to the left and
right of him to inadvertently crash around in the thicket and scare the game
over his way. But I eventually became enough of a woodsman to no longer be of
any use to him in these endeavors and was allowed to join the hunt proper.
The rules were simple
enough: Don't be runnin' you mouth all the damn time; it scares the game. When
you get to a fence, get the hell over the goddamn thing some time t'day. When
you do, break down and unload your shotgun first. Make sure your muzzle is
always pointed away for the other hunters. And don't ever get
in front of another hunter, no matter what. Any and all of these were offenses
for which you could expect an immediate response, which usually consisted of a
rap on the skull with Grandpa's hard, boney knuckles, or a good swift kick in
the seat of the pants—one that was pretty much sound enough to make your nose
bleed.
This is not to say that, when pressed, Vern could not be innovative with his punishments. Once when I had been dilly-dallying around, in seeking to negotiate a particularly rickety barbed wire fence for what, to him, must have seemed an inordinate amount of time, he shimmied and twisted a rotting fencepost out of the ground and with a movement not unlike shaking crumbs from a large tablecloth, undulated the entire fence in such a way that I was heaved on my head and shoulders onto the ground on the other side, as if thrown from a bucking bronco. And with that he picked up his shotgun, reloaded it and moved off in search of game. I knew it was useless—even dangerous—to protest, so I simply picked myself up, dusted myself off and moved off quickly behind him. After that I was a miraculously agile fence-climber.
Anyway, the point is, Greenlawn was, until I was old enough to have lost some loved ones, always a place where new adventures began. Depending on your religious views, that might be true for just about everyone who goes there. But then, who knows?
When my grandfather
himself died in 1976 at the age of 79, and when my grandmother followed him two
years later at about the same age, they were laid to rest in the shadow of a
monument to the very man whose farms they had kept for him in the early half of
their lives.
The back of the chair |
The Herbst monument is
a veritable landmark at Greenlawn. It is a huge steeple-topped monstrosity,
made of deep-grey polished granite. The base is a heavy rectangular monolith
perhaps four or five feet wide on each side with the name HERBST inscribe on it
in huge block letter. Just above that, there is a larger-than-life
armchair—an empty armchair, as if to signify that its owner has taken leave—surrounded
by four classic Greco-Roman columns. Continuing above the chair is the steeple,
a pyramidal spire that ends in a kind of amphora. The whole thing rises some
fifteen feet or more into the air.
I've talked to my cousins,
and they’d heard the same urban legend as I did. It’s the now-traditional story
about how, when our parents were in high school, as a prank, some youngsters
grabbed a boy they had always liked to bully and, somehow, managed to haul him
up to the armchair, where they hogtied him fast to it. Nobody heard the boy's
shouts for help. When workers found him the next morning, after he had spent
the entire night bound to that tomb in the cemetery, his hair, legend has it,
had turned white from fear and he had gone mad.
The ironic thing about
our family plot—where my grandparents, and now, also, my own parents and
brother have all been laid to rest— isn't just that it lies in the shadow
of that ostentatious monument, but also that Mr. Herbst's empty armchair
is oriented so that it gives its back to my grandfather and his family. Fitting,
it would seem, if, in all likelihood, wholly accidental.