When I was back in Ohio in November, one of the things I had on my to-do list was a mini road trip I wanted to take. I had never been to Alger, Ohio, and felt it was about time I paid it a visit.
I called up my friend Mary Jo Knoch, who is an incredible photographer, and asked if she wanted to come along and maybe snap some pictures. Mary Jo wasn’t very sure why I, or anyone else, would choose to go to Alger as a tourist destination, but said, “Hey, you know me. I’m always up for a road trip.
A vintage postcard of the Alger of yesteryear |
Alger, for any of you who
are unfamiliar with it, is a village of fewer than nine hundred souls, located
in Marion Township, in Hardin County. It hasn’t always been called Alger. When
it was first founded in 1882, it was known as Jagger, named after Elias Jagger,
the man who laid out the plans under which the town first took shape. The name
was later changed, however, in honor—and don’t ask me why because the village
is nowhere near the northern state line—of twentieth Michigan Governor Russell
Alger. It was finally officially incorporated in 1892. The town is located on
Route 235, a few miles south of Ada, Ohio.
The village covers a surface area of 0.28 square miles. As my mother,
Reba Mae, would have said, if you’re driving through, make sure you don’t blink
or you’ll miss it.
For every one hundred
women over eighteen in Alger, there are only eighty-two men. That might mean
that men are in high demand in Alger. Either that or Alger women “order out.”
Ray Brown |
Thinking about Ray Brown
I can only reflect that it has to have been frustrating for truly great black
players to always be relegated to the “semi-pro” Negro League, as if they would
never be “good enough” for the majors because they were born with the “wrong
color” of skin. Paige, who once played for the Cleveland Cubs Negro League
team, provided an inkling of that frustration, saying: "I'd look over at the Cleveland Indians'
stadium, called League Park... All season long it burned me, playing there
in the shadow of that stadium. It didn't hurt my pitching, but it sure didn't
do me any good."
So anyway, why Alger?
Well, whether I’ve ever been aware of it or not, like Ray Brown, there’s Alger
in my veins. Let me take a moment to explain.
Murel Newland, my
grandfather, didn’t often talk about his childhood. I always got the impression
it had been less than fun. But I once heard him say something about “when he
was a kid in Alger.”
I recall one story that
my grandmother told about how Murel was always brawling. One of the times at
school that he got into it with another kid, the teacher couldn’t find out who
had started it, so decided to give them both a whipping—and I mean a whipping. For that purpose, her weapon of choice was
the long-strapped buggy whip she used to drive the horse that pulled her cabriolet
carriage—this was sometime before 1910, perhaps 1908—the same year Ray Brown
was born in Murel’s home town.
Murel was scrappy, if
small, and known for being a capable and resilient streetfighter, as was the
other boy. Indeed, the fight had been about who could take whom. They really didn’t have anything major
against each other except the need to protect their tough-guy reputations.
So, when it came time for
their punishment, they both wanted to go first, to show who was the bravest.
The teacher decided for them, taking the other boy by the ear, and leading him
to a space open enough for her to get a swing at him with her whip. Murel
listened from behind a divider to the repeated slap of the whip. Ten lashes,
and the other kid didn’t let a whimper slip from his lips. He came out from
behind the divider red-faced but tearless, and murmured, “Your turn Newland.”
And then he waited there on the other side of the divider while Murel took his
beating.
Murel’s opponent couldn’t
have been more surprised when he saw Murel emerge from behind the divider
with tears streaming down his face. According to my grandmother, the other kid
came forward, put a hand on Murel’s shoulder and said, “Hey Newland, don’t let
that ol’ bag see you cryin’. Come on! What’re you bawlin’ about. I’ve hit you a
lot harder than that and you just bounced back up and tattooed the hell out of
me. What’s the story?”
Murel looked down at his
vest that was hanging open and askew in front.
“I’m not cryin’ about the beatin’,” Murel said, “I’m cryin’ ‘cause her
goldarn whip cut the buttons off o’ my vest. My mom could barely afford this
suit o’ clothes and she’s gonna be furious.”
Murel was, however,
incorrigible. One of the other times he felt the lash at school was when he was
climbing the stairs behind his teacher and couldn’t resist reaching up under
her bustle and goosing her.
The only image I have of Great-Grandpa Elmer, accompanied, I believe, by Murel's only sister, Mame. |
Just as famously—at least
in our family—Maude, unbeknownst to her, served the two killers a meal just
before they crossed the street and murdered Sheriff Jess Sarber. That was in
October of 1933.
Sheriff Sarber |
Although Murel lived much
of his life in Lima, before moving, in his forties, to Wapakoneta, twelve miles
away, he wasn’t, as I say, born there. He was a native of Alger. Elmer made his
living as a barber there, and as soon as Murel was big enough to stand on a box
and reach the clients in the barber chair, he became Elmer’s apprentice.
One of the first things Elmer taught him, oddly enough, was one of the hardest: how to give a proper shave with a straight-razor. I can still recall my grandfather using a straight to shave when I was a boy. And he still made a barber’s ritual of it, heating water, soaking a hand-towel in it, and wrapping his lower face and neck in the steaming towel to soften his beard. He would then whip up a froth of shaving soap with his brush in a mug, and lather up slowly and fully with that same brush, before tuning up his fearsome blade on a razor strop, and then carefully scraping off his beard with it. I was in junior high before he deigned to switch to a safety razor in which he always used Wilkinson Sword Steel blades.
Great-Grandma Maude Numbers |
Murel (wearing tie, standing) in his Lima barbershop |
The thing that had really
piqued my interest was that a reader, who had seen a piece I wrote about
Murel’s Lima barbershop, in which I mentioned, in passing, his “Algerian”
origins, wrote and told me that she was from Alger, and that Newland was a
well-known name there. There was even a diner there that was still run by some
people named Newland, she said.
It didn’t take much
research to find out that my family’s roots in Alger stretched back to at least
the time of my great-great grandfather, Abraham Newland. Born in 1812, he was
originally from somewhere in Pennsylvania, but had moved, as a young man, to
Hardin County, on the site of Alger, in the Ohio Territory. I was excited to
find evidence that his mortal remains had been laid to rest, in 1883, at Preston
Cemetery in Alger.
Then, as usual, I got
sidetracked. Although I made a mental note to visit Alger the next time I was
back in the US for a visit, my research stalled at Abe. So when Mary Jo and I
agreed on the road trip, it was more of a random long ride in the country with
the Newland connection to Alger as an excuse for it.
Google Maps suggested
there were several ways to get to Alger from Wapakoneta, where I was staying,
but I just clicked START and let the Google lady’s voice guide me along the supposedly
fastest route—Wapak to Lima on I-75, exiting at the Hardin Pike, and taking it
to Route 235, which runs through the heart of Alger.
After we got off the Interstate, it was a lovely, bucolic journey, through the rural Ohio countryside, on a really gorgeous, crisp, blue-and-golden autumn Saturday. The trip took less than an hour. (There are shorter ways to get there from Wapakoneta, but the Google lady liked I-75, which, I now realize, took us out of our way).
Now, I should note that
Mary Jo is a planner, and I could tell that my footloose, no-plan approach to
things was making her uneasy.
“What’re we looking for?”
she asked as I started coasting around the village at an almost pedestrian
pace.
“Damned if I know,” I
muttered. “A diner, I guess.”
“Take Lee Street,” she
said, “It looks like kind of a main drag.”
We did, but you can’t go
very far in Alger before you find yourself out of town again. Eventually,
however, we did come across a place that looked as if it was, or had been a
diner. But it was closed. Indeed, it looked permanently closed. Then, on Main
Street, we came across another place with a big PEPSI sign outside. Mary Jo had
a Google Map of Alger open on her phone.
"This appears to be a
diner,” she said. “I think it’s the One Fourteen Diner.” But it
was apparently closed on Saturday afternoons.
I said, “Okay, let’s try
and find the cemetery, then we’ll come back.”
Consulting her phone map
again, Mary Jo said, “Okay, turn left…Now turn right. Looks like it’s a couple
miles out in the country.”
Shortly, we came to the
cemetery entrance. It was a small, typical, rural graveyard, pretty much
surrounded by fields, with the exception of a nearby truck repair operation.
The internal streets were one-car narrow, and the graves came right up to them,
so you couldn’t pull off without parking on somebody.
“If you want to get out,”
I said, “I’ll drive to the back and find a place to put the car.”
Mary Jo, amused, glanced
around in all directions. There was no one else in the cemetery. No one passing
by on the road.
She grinned at me and
said, “Doesn’t look like there’s much traffic.”
“Just in case,” I said.
“O-kay,” she shrugged, and got out of the car. I found the only
cross-street, which dead-ended at the edge of a field, and left the car there.
"Found it!" cries Mary Jo before I even get started. |
“We’re looking for
anything that says Newland,” I called to her. “You go that way. I’ll go this
way.”
Smart girl, Mary Jo had
started perusing the inscriptions on the graves nearest the road. It stood to
reason that the ones there would be the oldest graves in the cemetery.
“Found it!” she called
before I even had a chance to start looking.
Mary Jo was standing in a
section of the graveyard where the tombstones were quite old. So old, in fact,
that the inscriptions on most of them were nearly illegible. I kept wishing I
had some big sheets of paper and a chunk of charcoal to lift their reliefs. In
the midst of all of these old stones, however, was a fairly new, modern
headstone with the name Andrew Newland emblazoned on it. He was born in 1838
and died in 1910. I can only guess that there were still members of his immediate
family or that he had been a pillar of the community, since his was the only
Newland grave with a new headstone.
But what had Andrew been to me and to my cousin Greg. Both Mary Jo and I whipped out our phones and began an immediate, on-the-spot research project.
Andrew's new monument |
“Looks like he was
Elmer’s brother,” I said. “So our great-great uncle?”
Mary Jo found a site that
gave more of the family genealogy and listed Syrus Elmer (strange spelling, but
our great-grandfather’s actual first name, which may be why he went by Elmer)
and Andrew as siblings.
“But wait a second,” I
said, “Andrew was born in 1838, and Elmer wasn’t born until 1874!” Further and deeper research was apparently
going to be necessary.
Right then, and in the
coming days, I would find out that Andrew and Elmer were half-brothers. Abe had
lived to a ripe old age for those times (seventy-one) and outlived his first
wife, Mary Kerns Newland, by twenty years. The couple had six children:
Jeremiah, Andrew, William, Rachel, Sanford and Nancy.
Nancy Newland's grave in the Hattery plot. |
Of Elmer’s half-siblings,
the only one not buried in Preston Cemetery is Jeremiah, a Sergeant in the 82nd
Ohio Infantry of the US Army, whose body lies in a cemetery in Cass County, Nebraska.
He was twice wounded during the Civil War at Chancellorsville, Virginia, and at
Wauhatchie, Tennessee. I can only assume that it was the Indian Wars of the
eighteen-sixties and seventies that took him to Nebraska, where he was probably
discharged and later died, in 1886, aged fifty-one. There is no record of the burial of their
mother, Mary Kearns Newland, but she is listed as “probably buried in Preston
Cemetery.” Nor does Abe have a tombstone any longer—natural wear and tear,
vandals? Who knows? But there is indeed a record of his burial there. His
second wife, Rebecca Hattery, is also buried at Alger’s Preston Cemetery, and
we saw a Hattery monument within the area where the Newlands are buried while
we were visiting the graveyard. We also found William’s tombstone, broken off
of its base and lying flat in the grass under a walnut tree.
William Newland's stone, broken off and lying in the grass |
All of this rich family
history, Mary Jo and I were able to glean from clues we found in the little
cemetery on the outskirts of the Village of Alger, the town where the Newlands’
Ohio history appears to have begun.
“Let’s go back to town
and see if we can find anybody who knows some Newlands that aren’t dead,” I
suggested, and Mary Jo concurred.
Easier said than done. It seems Alger pretty much rolls up the sidewalks on Saturday afternoons, so it wasn’t like we had throngs of people on the streets to talk to. But we did find a convenience store open, where people were actually lining up inside to buy this and that. When there was a lull, I walked up to the young woman behind the counter and said, apropos of nothing, “Hi! Do you know any Newlands here in town?”
Eroded to nearly illegible |
“Sorry,” I said, “I’m a
Newland. That’s why I’m asking.”
“Newland?”
“Yes.”
“You know, I don’t, but
I’ve heard the name.”
“Yes,” I laughed.
“Preston Cemetery’s full of them.” And then added, “Are you from here
originally.”
“All my life,” she said.
She was in, probably, her early twenties, so in all fairness, “all her life”
didn’t cover a lot of history. “Maybe check the phone book?” she suggested helpfully,
but she didn’t seem to have one.
“Thanks anyway,” I said.
Outside, Mary Jo had
struck up a conversation with a guy in a pick-up truck. She introduced me and
said he was a local contractor.
“Yeah,” the guy said, “we
do just about everything you can think of in building and remodeling.” He
handed Mary Jo his card.
“Well listen,” I said, “you
must know a lot of people around here. My people are originally from here. Do
you happen to know any Newlands?”
“I know there are some
around,” he said, “but I don’t know them.”
After he left, I turned
to Mary Jo and said, “Okay, I’m googling Newland – Alger, Ohio.”
Right away I got a hit:
Newland’s Landing.
“Landing?” I said. “Is
there water around here?” Then I saw the marker on the virtual map and
calculated that it was nine miles south of Alger and was located on Newland
Drive. I clicked START once again and let the Google Lady dictate a few twists
and turns, until I realized that we were heading for the backwaters of the
sprawling Indian Lake Reservoir. The fact that the Google Lady had taken us to
Alger via I-75 North and the Hardin Pike had kept me from realizing that we
could have approached from State Route 33, which runs right by the lake through
Russells Point and Lakeview. In Alger, we were only a stone’s throw from the
lakeshore.
Look more animated... |
Shortly, the Google Lady
ordered me to turn left onto Newland Drive. As soon as we made the turn,
however, Mary Jo said, “Well, we’d better stop and get a few pictures of this.”
“What?”
“The road sign!”
“Oh right!”
So I pulled over onto the
grassy berm of the narrow gravel road.
“Go over under the sign,”
Mary Jo instructed. I stood there under it, stiff as a cigar store wooden Indian.
I heard Mary Jo go
“Ummm…” But she didn’t finish the thought. She said, “Uh, okay,” and shot a
couple of frames. I smiled and started to walk back toward the car. “Listen,”
she said, “we’ve gotta do something about making you look more animated.”
...like this! |
“Yeah, you know, alive!
Here,” she said, “I’ll pose and you take a picture.”
I got out my phone and
looked at the viewfinder as she used the sign post to strike a sort of
pole-dancing pose. I took the picture.
Mary Jo said, “See what I
mean?”
I went back over, grinned
like a self-conscious moron, and pointed up at the sign.
Mary Jo shot a couple
more frames, and said, “Well, that was better…”
with the unspoken continuation of that phrase going “But, man! You have got to lighten up!”
Um...better. |
It was as we were taking
a few pictures that I realized we had just debunked a family myth. Back in the
day, my grandfather had done a lot of fishing in the Lakeview and Russells
Point area. Sometimes he even took me along.
When he found out that
there were Newlands in the area, Murel being Murel, he started knocking on
their doors. To a man and woman, they said they knew of no connection between
the Indian Lake Newlands and the Wapakoneta Newlands.
Now, something you should know about Murel is that for the last twenty-five years before his retirement, he was the quintessential high-pressure life insurance salesman, and his territory included the entire Indian Lake region. I’m quite sure—because he even tried to sell me life insurance—that whatever genealogical inquiries he made, were prefaced by a foot-in-the-door insurance sales pitch. So who, in their right mind, would admit to family ties, when letting this guy in would surely end up in an hours-long pitch designed to make you feel like dirt if you turned him down and refused to “provide for your family’s future?”
Newland's Landing, Indian Lake |
The no-link myth was
further underscored by Murel’s second wife, Floetta—a tee-totaling Methodist,
and my grandmother’s first cousin—who, when my brother and I once mentioned the
Indian Lake Newlands, told us, “Oh no, no. They’re no relation. Those are the drinking branch of the Newlands.”
This struck my brother
Dennis and me as hilarious, since back then, in our thirties, we mutually
prided ourselves on being able to drink each other, and everybody else, under
the table. I said, “So, Bro, we’d better go hang out at the lake!” Floetta was
not amused.
But now, standing here at
Newland’s Landing, on Newland Drive, and with a slew of my Newland ancestors
pushing up daisies in a graveyard just nine miles up the road in Alger, I
couldn’t help but ask myself if the Indian Lake Newlands and the
Lima-Wapakoneta Newlands “not being related,” wasn’t a bit too much of a
coincidence to be credible.
Right then, I vowed that
the next time I came back home to Ohio, I’d make a point heading for the lake, finding
some members of “the drinking branch” of the Newlands, and toasting their good
health.