It has been a crisp, beautiful, blue autumn day here in my corner of
Patagonia. Sun dapples the ground through the spreading branches of the four century-old
beeches in the yard. I can hear the hollow chopping sound and strange chortling
of a couple of the large and stunning Patagonian woodpeckers that grace us from
time to time with their presence. And the squawk of the colorful and flamboyant
burrowing parrots that usually live in rocky hollows up high in the mountains
but that flock out of the heights in bands of twenty or so at this time of the
year to descend on the apple trees that grow wild everywhere in these parts.
The festive green, blue, yellow and red birds come to gorge themselves on the
almost past-ripe fruit.
I can hear one neighbor’s lawn mower somewhere in the distance, hammer
blows on the deck that my closest neighbor is building in fits and starts, as
time allows, and the occasional whine of a chainsaw from my friend Daniel’s
house down by the lagoon, where he’s preparing firewood for the winter. There
was a light breeze a while ago, but now everything is doldrums-still. Virginia
is out sitting in a lawn chair in the late-afternoon autumnal sunlight, wearing
cap and sweater and reading Dickens from her Kindle as our four dogs sunbathe
nearby.
It is a warm, bucolic scene that belies what is going on in most of the
rest of the world. The seventy-odd acres of forest beyond the yard—so inserted
into the woodland are we that we’ve never figured out whether to call that the
front yard or the backyard—stand immutable, a natural barrier to the outside
world, and the solitude of which, as their warden for the past quarter-century,
I have jealously guarded.
The peace and tranquility here are an invaluable treasure. And if it
weren’t for having to go out occasionally for supplies, you could, perhaps,
live perfectly well without ever learning that a modern-day plague has made the
world grind to a halt, or that there is literally rampant panic and economic chaos
in practically every country on earth—nowhere more than in my own native United
States where the virus is literally testing and even belying the chimera of the
American dream.
It would have been even easier to indulge in abstraction when we first
arrived here all those many years ago. Back then, communications were scant.
When we first started living here, we made do with a service that provided
walkie-talkies with a telephone patch. “The Privileged Phoned” among our
acquaintances had to grow accustomed to waiting for us to say “over” before
they spoke. Then we had a land line. The phone company had to put in sixty-six
telephone poles and a multi-par line to get it to us. And as soon as cellphones
arrived in Patagonia, I was one of the first to have one, a cumbersome
apparatus as large and hefty as a small paving brick. I was also one of the
first to have dial-up Internet and to use it to make a living from home.
But before those later stages of “progress”, it wouldn’t have been hard
to remain oblivious to anything but the raw nature surrounding us. Especially
since, back then, there were only seven neighbors in hundreds of acres, and all
of them nearly as skittish as we were. For us, the “news” could easily have
been the changing of the seasons, the coming of long days of continuous heavy
rain or extended drought, thirty- or forty-mile-an-hour wind gusts, the
occasional blizzard, or the much more occasional eruption of one of the nearby
volcanoes that dusted us with grey ash. With the exception of one family of autochthonous
born-and-bread locals, of which Daniel forms part, we had all at some time
survived the stress of busy careers in the city and had come here in search of
solace.
But my career had been in big-city and international journalism and I
quickly realized that I was a news junky who couldn’t get along without
remaining permanently updated on what was going on in the rest of the world.
Try as I might, I couldn’t shake the news monkey on my back. I had the constant
nervous sensation that I was missing out on something crucial. So I quickly became
an avid researcher and interpreter of the international news sources that
swiftly populated, then overpopulated, the World Wide Web.
I have been thinking a great deal about all of this in the days since
the corona virus left China on a world tour, infecting hundreds of millions and
killing tens of thousands along the way. As a communications professional with
forty years of history in the craft, I get that it is important for all of us
to have full and accurate knowledge of the extent to which this disease is
capable of affecting our lives and of what we must do to avoid the contagion
and to prevent its spread as much as humanly possible. But once we are proactively
doing all of those things, what more can we ask of ourselves?
Metro police check authorizations to circulate in Buenos Aires |
Here in Argentina, where I live, the current president, Alberto
Fernández, took swift and decisive measures to curtail or restrict the spread
of the virus. He closed the country’s borders with neighboring nations,
grounded international and all non-essential domestic flights, imposed a
fourteen-day quarantine on all Argentines returning to the country from other nations,
decreed the immediate closure of all schools, ordered bars and restaurants
shuttered and took steps to close all non-essential businesses—pretty much
everything but food suppliers and pharmacies. And those remaining open are
subject to strict social-distancing norms to protect both consumers and
employees.
President Fernández also imposed strict shelter in place orders on the
country’s entire population to halt all non-essential human circulation. For common
citizens this means only absolutely necessary trips to the grocery or
drugstore. Essential public and private personnel, meanwhile, can circulate only
as much as necessary to commute to and from work and to discharge their
functions, but they must be in possession of authorization letters or
credentials from their employers. To put teeth into these emergency measures,
the Argentine president set fines of up to a hundred thousand pesos—about one
thousand two hundred and fifty dollars—and worked with federal justice to implement
already existing national emergency legislation imposing jail time for anyone
violating the terms of the nationwide quarantine, ranging from fifteen days to fifteen
years (depending on the seriousness of the violation).
Here in Patagonia, normally bustling tourist towns are also deserted. |
To date there have been several thousand people detained nationwide, but
up to now, all of them have been fined and/or given house arrest under their
own recognizance. However, the infraction goes on their record, with the idea
being that any further violations of the quarantine would result in much harsher
fines or sentences.
These measures seem to be working well to drastically reduce
circulation. For instance, my sister-in-law requires twenty-four/seven home
care and has a wonderful team of care-givers for that purpose, headed up by a
male nurse friend of ours and his sister. My sister-in-law’s apartment building
is on Cabildo, one of the busiest avenues in Buenos Aires—a capital city of
three million people, with an urban sprawl surrounding it that is home to
another fifteen million souls. On any given day of the week, Avenida Cabildo is a veritable sea of
bustling, noisy humanity, and is jammed with buses, taxis, trucks and private
automobiles. To add to the movement, one of the city’s busiest subway lines
runs under it, with a surface entrance to a station on that line roughly every
four blocks.
Avenida Cabildo at "rush hour". |
But the other day, our friend had to go out at what is usually rush hour
to buy some medication for his patient. What he saw was so strange and disconcerting
that he snapped a photo with his cellphone showing that main commercial avenue
virtually empty with only a handful of essential workers like himself out to
make a crucial purchase or to wait for the sparse public transport.
His sister, who replaces him on his days off as my sister-in-law’s main
care-giver, has a two-hour commute by train, which she takes at the main
south-bound terminal, Constitución.
She has started wearing a uniform and we’ve had to issue her with a care-giver
authorization since she was stopped twice by Metropolitan Police officers on a
single night as she was heading for Constitución
to go home.
Images from downtown Buenos Aires shot over the days since the
quarantine began in the early days of March are even more eerie. One shows an
aerial shot of the principal entrance to the city proper from Buenos Aires
Province completely deserted. Another picture is the iconic Obelisk at the
heart of the city on the broad and usually traffic-bound Avenida Nueve de Julio. It is Twilight-Zone empty, as if a neutron
bomb had vaporized all traces of humankind and left the buildings and Obelisk
untouched.
One of the main accesses to downtown Buenos Aires |
I can’t help but think that the decision to take such early, strict and
severe action here is a reflection of the results of Italy’s delay in doing so.
More than sixty percent of Argentina’s population is of Italian descent. Many
families still have relatives and close ties to Italy. The tragic outcome of
the pandemic there couldn’t help but hit home. And in general, people around
the country have so far demonstrated an admirable level of solidarity and
compliance, as well as bringing withering peer pressure on anyone who doesn’t
obey, including reporting quarantine violators to the authorities.
American friends have been a little shocked at the severity of these actions
when I’ve mentioned them, but news from the US this morning was headlined by
the decision of Maryland’s governor to impose similarly tough measures after
witnessing the exponential advance of the virus in New York and New Jersey.
Only time will tell how Argentina will weather this storm in the end, and
indeed, known cases have doubled in the past week. But they remain relatively low
for now, at just under a thousand infected, with two dozen fatalities to date
out of a population of forty-four million.
The Obelisk...Twilight Zone-deserted |
During a siesta the other day, I dreamed that I was part of a White
House team working directly with the president. This president. The Don. My
specific job was to do what I know how to do best. General research. Gather all
available information on the virus to date. But another part of the job was to
create executive summaries on the subject so hard-hitting and devastatingly
convincing as to spur the president and his policy team to take every drastic measure
suggested by current science, so as to not only halt the spread of the disease,
but also to fully and adequately respond to it for as long as it posed a
threat.
The president was at a long table surrounded by advisors. They were all
sitting. I was standing before them with a sheaf of papers in my hands. All of
them looked confident and professional in their dark suits, bright white shirts
and silk neckties. For my part, I was the only one dressed in the same everyday
attire that I wear to sit at my desk at home and write—faded jeans, a well-worn
work shirt and a hoody. I felt entirely unequal to my task and doomed to
failure.
It would be wonderful at dire times like these if we all had vast
medical research knowledge to help contribute to finding a vaccine and a cure.
But we don’t. The best we can do is everything in our power to get out of the
way, and to not complicate any further the lives of front-line
professionals—doctors, nurses, technicians and first responders—who are working
so hard and sacrificing so much to save as many of us as possible.
But once that’s done, I’m thinking, maybe I should go back to seizing
the opportunity offered by the welcome isolation I found when I first arrived
in this relatively remote area of the world. Maybe I need to tune out all of
the “noise” extraneous to the basic knowledge of the virus that I require to
keep myself, my neighbors and my loved ones safe. In short, to actively seek
abstraction and to try to accept and enjoy being out of play for awhile. Perhaps
each of us individually needs to embrace that sort of voluntary isolation-mentality
for the time being. As if we were “on assignment” in Antarctica, or enjoying a
period of rest, meditation and introspective reflection in some remote temple.
Maybe what we need, in order to help quell our worry and anxiety, which
are futile and of no practical help in pulling us through—on the contrary, they
undermine our inner strength and wellness—is to replace them with the sure
knowledge that this crisis, like others we’ve survived in our lifetime, will
eventually pass. That our task is not just to survive it, but to do so with the
most positive attitude and heightened energy possible, so as to start
rebuilding our worlds the minute the all-clear sirens sound. And that those of
us fortunate enough to still have a roof over our heads and food on our tables are
not “captives in our houses”, but safe and sound in our homes, for which we
should be eternally grateful.
Anything else, for the moment, is simply beyond our control.